The Christmas tree

The Christmas tree is a decorated Artificial Christmas tree, natural Christmas tree or Prelit Tree, a popular tradition associated with the celebration of Christmas. Normally an evergreen coniferous tree that is brought into a home or used in the open, a Christmas tree is decorated with Christmas lights and colourful ornaments during the days around Christmas. An angel or star is often placed at the top of the tree, representing the host of angels or the Star of Bethlehem from the Nativity story.

From the company that has decorated famous Christmas settings like Chicago’s State Street and Dollywood comes professional-grade holiday trimmings to deck the halls of your home. GKI/Bethlehem Lighting’s 7-1/2-foot Hunter PE/PVC tree faithfully reproduces the lush fullness of a freshly cut evergreen with 4,671 tips on downswept long branches and a generous sprinkling of burr cones. Offering a balanced shape with enough variation to still look organic, the tree can be viewed equally well from every side to showcase all the favorite family ornaments and garland. It also comes pre-strung with 850 clear mini lights nestled into the branch layers. Using an individual lock-in method, each bulb stays firmly in place and operates independently of the others so one burnout won’t cast the whole tree into un-festive (and frustrating!) darkness. Fire-retardant, fade-proof, and crush-resistant, the tree stands securely on a metal base and features heavy-duty wire branch construction so it looks crisp and perfect all season long. When it’s time to pack away, the included carton stores this showpiece safely without damage to needles. The tree measures 70 inches in diameter and comes with a 10-year limited warranty. –Kara Karll

This 7.5 Foot PE/PVC Hunter Christmas Tree offers dramatic down swept long branches that bow gracefully toward the ground. The tree is sparkled with burr cones making it look fresh-cut straight from the forest. Not only does it look amazing real it feels that way too! Pre-lit with 850 clear mini lights.

 

Crochet Pattern Baby Topper

baby

SKILL LEVEL: Easy

SIZE:
0-6 months (12-18 months, 2-3 years, 4 years)
Finished Chest 19 (20, 22, 25) in. 48.5 (51, 56, 63.5) cm)
Finished Length 9 1/2 (10, 11, 12 1/2) in. (24 (25.5, 28, 32) cm)

CORRECTIONS: None

Baby Topper Lion Brand® Babysoft® GAUGE: 16 sc + 12 1/2 rows = 4 in. (10 cm). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. BACK Ch 39 (41, 45, 51). Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch, rep from * across – 38 (40, 44, 50) sts. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) in. (11.5 (12.5, 14, 15) cm) from beg. Shape Armhole Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first 2 (2, 2, 4) sts, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * to last 2 (2, 2, 4) sts, leave last 2 (2, 2, 4) sts unworked – 34 (36, 40, 42) sts. Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 9 1/2 (10, 11, 12 1/2) in. (24 (25.5, 28, 32) cm) from beg. Fasten off. LEFT FRONT Ch 27 (29, 31, 35). Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch, rep from * across – 26 (28, 30, 34) sts. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) in. (11.5 (12.5, 14, 15) cm) from beg. Shape Armhole Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first 2 (2, 2, 4) sts, sc in next dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across – 24 (26, 28, 30) sts. Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 9 1/2 (10, 11, 12 1/2) in. (24 (25.5, 28, 32) cm) from beg. Fasten off.RIGHT FRONT Ch 17 (17, 19, 21). Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch, rep from * across – 16 (16, 18, 20) sts. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) in. (11.5 (12.5, 14, 15) cm) from beg. Shape Armhole Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * to last 2 (2, 2, 4) sts, leave remaining sts unworked – 14 (14, 16, 16) sts. Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 9 1/2 (10, 11, 12 1/2) in. (24 (25.5, 28, 32) cm) from beg. Fasten off. SLEEVE (make 2) Ch 41 (41, 49, 53). Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch, rep from * across – 40 (40, 48, 52) sts. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc, rep from * across. Rep last row until piece measures 7 1/2 (8, 9, 9 1/2) in. (19 (20.5, 23, 24) cm) from beg. Fasten off. FINISHING Sew Fronts to Back, sewing 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 3/4) in. 5 (5.5, 6.5, 7) cm) along each shoulder towards neck. Leave 4 1/2 (4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2) in. (11.5 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm) at center back neck unsewn. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Fold about 3/4 in. (2 cm) to right side at end of Sleeves for cuffs; sew in place. Edging Join yarn with sl st in lower corner of Right Front; ch 1, sc evenly along Right Front edge to neck, around neck, and evenly down Left Front edge. Fasten off. Sew button about 5 in. (12.5 cm) below neck edge. Use spaces between sts as buttonhole. Weave in ends. ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s) dc = double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing) sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch st(s) = stitch(es) sponsored by Kidkraft ® Dollhouse Store & Kidkraft ® Kitchen Store

 

Crochet Pattern Short And Sweet Child’s Cardigan

baby

SKILL LEVEL: Beginner

SIZE:
0-6 months (12-18 months, 2-3 years, 4 years)
Finished Chest 19 (20, 22, 25) in. (48.5 (51, 56, 63.5) cm)
Finished Length 9 1/2 (10 1/4, 11, 12) in. (24 (26, 28, 30.5) cm)

CORRECTIONS: None

Short And Sweet Child’s Cardigan Lion Brand® Babysoft® GAUGE: 16 half double crochet + 12 1/2 rows = 4 in. (10 cm). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. BACK Chain 41 (43, 47, 53). Row 1: Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook and each chain across – 39 (41, 45, 51) half double crochet. Row 2: Chain 2, turn, half double crochet in each stitch across. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) in. (11.5 (12.5, 14, 15) cm) from beginning. Shape Armhole Next Row: Chain 1, turn, slip stitch in each of next 3 (3, 4, 5) stitches, chain 2, half double crochet in same stitch, half double crochet in each stitch across to last 2 (2, 3, 4) stitches, leave remaining stitches unworked – 35 (37, 39, 43) half double crochet. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9 1/2 (10 1/4, 11, 12) in. (24 (26, 28, 30.5) cm) from beginning. Fasten off. FRONT (make 2) Note: Left and Right Front are identical Chain 22 (23, 25, 28). Row 1: Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook and each chain across – 20 (21, 23, 26) half double crochet. Row 2: Chain 2, turn, half double crochet in each stitch across. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 5 1/2, 6) in. (11.5 (12.5, 14, 15) cm) from beginning. Shape Armhole Next Row: Chain 2, turn, half double crochet in each stitch across to last 2 (2, 3, 4) stitches, leave remaining stitches unworked – 18 (19, 20, 22) half double crochet. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9 1/2 (10 1/4, 11, 12) in. (24 (26, 28, 30.5) cm) from beginning. Fasten off. SLEEVES Chain 41 (43, 45, 49). Row 1: Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook and each chain across – 39 (41, 43, 47) half double crochet. Row 2: Chain 2, turn, half double crochet in each stitch across. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 4 1/2 (5 1/2, 6, 6 1/2) in. (11.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm) from beginning. Fasten off. FINISHING Sew Fronts to Back, leaving 4 1/2 (4 1/2, 5, 5) in. (11.5 (11.5, 12.5, 12.5) cm) open at back neck, and 2 1/4 (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2) in. (5.5 (5.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm) open at each Front neck. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Fold about 3/4 in. (2 cm) at end of Sleeves for cuff; sew in place. Collar From right side, join yarn with slip stitch in top corner of Right Front. Chain 2, half double crochet evenly across Right Front neck, Back Neck and Left Front neck. Next Row: Chain 2, turn, half double crochet across. Repeat last row until Collar measures 2 1/4 (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 3 1/4) in. (5.5 (5.5, 6.5, 8.5) cm). Fasten off. Edging From right side, join yarn in lower corner of Right Front. Chain 1, single crochet evenly up Right Front edge to beginning of Collar, chain 5 (for button loop), continue in single crochet around Collar and down Left Front edge. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Sew on button.

sponsored by Kidkraft ® Dollhouse Store & Kidkraft ® Kitchen Store

 

Knitting Pattern Playdate Hoodie

baby

SKILL LEVEL:  Easy

SIZE:
6 months (1 year, 18 months, 2 years)
Finished Chest: 18 3/4 (20 3/4, 22 1/2, 24 1/2) in. (47.5 (52.5, 57, 62) cm)
Finished Length: 8 (10, 11, 13) in. (20.5 (25.5, 28, 33) cm)
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

CORRECTIONS: None

Playdate Hoody Lion Brand® Recycled Cotton GAUGE: 20 sts + 24 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. BACK Cast on 46 (51, 57, 62) sts. Rows 1-6: Knit. Row 7 (RS): Knit. Row 8: Purl. Continue in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 8 (10, 11, 13) in. (20.5 (25.5, 28, 33) cm) from beg. Bind off. LEFT FRONT Cast on 24 (26, 28, 30) sts. Rows 1-6: Knit. Row 7 (RS): Knit. Row 8 (WS): K8, p16 (18, 20, 22). Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 6 (8, 9, 11) in. (15 (20.5, 23, 28 ) cm) from beg, end with a RS row. Shape Neck Next Row (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 8, 8 ) sts for neck, finish row – 18 (20, 20, 22) sts. Continue in St st, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 2 (3, 3, 4) times – 16 (17, 17, 18 ) sts. Work even until piece measures same as Back. Bind off.RIGHT FRONT Cast on 24 (26, 28, 30) sts. Rows 1-6: Knit. Row 7 (RS): Knit. Row 8 (WS): P16 (18, 20, 22), k8. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 3 (4, 5, 7) in. (7.5 (10, 12.5, 18 cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Buttonhole Row (RS): K4, yarn over, k2tog, finish row. Work even until piece measures 5 1/2 (7 1/2, 8 1/2, 10 1/2) in. (14 (19, 21.5, 26.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Next Row (RS): Rep Buttonhole Row. Continue in St st until piece measures same as Left Front to neck shaping. Shape neck as for Left Front, reversing shaping. Bind off. SLEEVES Sew shoulder seams. Place markers 4 (4, 4 1/2, 5) in. (10 (10, 11.5, 12.5) cm) down from shoulder on Front and Back. From RS, pick up and k38 (38, 42, 46) sts between markers. Work in Garter st (k every row) for 2 in. (5 cm). Dec Row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog – 36 (36, 40, 44) sts. Continue in Garter st, rep Dec Row every 6th row 4 (4, 6, 8 ) times more – 28 sts. Work even until piece measures 6 (7, 8, 9) in. (15 (18, 20.5, 23) cm). Bind off.FINISHING Sew side and Sleeve seams. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes. Hood From RS, pick up and k56 (58, 60, 62) sts evenly spaced around neck edge. Next Row: K, increase 18 (18, 22, 22) sts evenly spaced across row – 74 (76, 82, 84) sts. Work in Garter st for 7 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2) in. (17.5 (19, 20.5, 21.5) cm). Bind off. Fold bound-off edge in half and seam for top of Hood. Weave in ends. ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES beg = begin(s)(ning) dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side

sponsored by Kidkraft ® Dollhouse Store

 

Knitting Pattern Love the Earth Baby Cardi

baby

SKILL LEVEL:  Intermediate

SIZE:
0-6 months (6-12 months, 12-18 months, 2-3 years, 4 years)
Finished Chest 18 1/2 (20, 22, 23 1/2, 25) in. (47 (51, 56, 59.5, 63.5) cm) excluding front borders
Finished Length 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) in. (23 (25.5, 28, 30.5, 33) cm)

CORRECTIONS: (applied Apr 15, 2009)

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Row 8: Work 4 sts in Seed st, *knit to 1 st before next marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo; rep from * 3 more times, knit to last 4 sts, work 4 sts in Seed st – 76 (82, 88, 94, 100) sts.

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Love the Earth Baby Cardi Lion Brand® Recycled Cotton GAUGE: 19 sts + 24 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. STITCH EXPLANATION: Seed Stitch (multiple of 2 sts + 1) Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2: Purl the k sts and knit the p sts. Rep Row 2 for Seed st. NOTES: Cardigan is worked in one piece from the neck down. CARDIGAN Collar Cast on 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) sts. Work in Seed st for 2 (2, 2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2) in. (5 (5, 5, 6.5, 6.5) cm). Neck Row 1 (WS): Work 4 sts in Seed st, (knit 2 sts together) to last 5 sts, k1, work 4 sts in Seed st – 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) sts. Rows 2-4: Keeping 4 sts at each edge in Seed st, work 3 rows in Rev St st (p on RS, k on WS). Row 5: Work 4 sts in Seed st, p into front and then back of each st to last 4 sts, work 4 sts in Seed st – 52 (58, 64, 70, 76) sts. Body Row 6 (RS): Cast on 4 sts, work in Seed st over these 4 sts for front border, k8 (9, 10, 11, 12), yo, k1, place marker, k1, yo, k6 (7, 8, 9, 10), yo, k1, place marker, k1, yo, k16 (18, 20, 22, 24), yo, k1, place marker, k1, yo, k6 (7, 8, 9, 10), yo, k1, place marker, k1, yo, k8 (9, 10, 11, 12), cast on 4 sts for front border – 68 (74, 80, 86, 92) sts. Row 7: Work 4 sts in Seed st, slipping markers purl to last 4 sts, work 4 sts in Seed st. Row 8: Work 4 sts in Seed st, *knit to 1 st before next marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo; rep from * 3 more times, knit to last 4 sts, work 4 sts in Seed st – 76 (82, 88, 94, 100) sts. Row 9: Rep Row 7. Rep last 2 rows 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) more times – 164 (178, 192, 206, 220) sts. Divide for Body and Sleeves (RS): Work 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts as established for Left Front and place these sts on holder; work next 34 (37, 40, 43, 46) sts for first Sleeve (do not place on holder); work next 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts for Back and place these sts on holder; work next 34 (37, 40, 43, 46) sts for second Sleeve and place these sts on holder; work remaining 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts for Right Front and place these sts on holder. Cut yarn.SLEEVES With WS facing, working across first Sleeve sts only, join yarn and work in St st (k on RS, p on WS), decrease 1 st each edge every 4th (4th, 6th, 6th, 6th) row 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) times – 26 (29, 32, 33, 34) sts. Work even until Sleeve measures 4 1/4 (5, 6, 8, 9) in. (11 (12.5, 15, 20.5, 23) cm) from dividing row, end with a WS row. Work 4 rows in Seed st. Bind off. With WS facing, place sts for second Sleeve Back onto needle and work as for first Sleeve. BODY With WS facing, place sts for Left Front, Back and Right Front onto needle, join yarn and work in pattern as established until piece measures 3 3/4 (4 1/2, 5, 5 3/4, 6 1/2) in. (9.5 (11.5, 12.5, 14.5, 16.5) cm) from joining row, end with a WS row – 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) sts. Work 4 rows in Seed st. Bind off. FINISHING Sew Sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Tie Cut a strand of yarn 3 yds. (3 m) long; fold in half. Secure folded end around door knob. Twist other end until taut and yarn begins to twist back on itself. Release end from door knob. Bring ends together and let cord twist on itself, smoothing to even the twist. Knot ends. Weave cord through neck sts. Knot ends. ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click for explanation and illustration k = knit p = purl RS = right side St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side yo = yarn over sponsored by Kidkraft ® Dollhouse Store & Kidkraft ® Kitchen Store

 

Back therapy

All About Your Back

Today back pain is one of the most common of all physical complaints in the world. About 70 to 90% of men and women in the U.S. have had or will have a least one bout of incapacitating low back pain. Back pain contributes to lost work time and may cost as much as $100 billion annually (if lost productivity is included¹).

Doctors generally agree that most back problems are caused by stress or by weak muscles. We need strong back , stomach, and hip muscles to resist gravity and to hold us up. As societies around the world become more mechanized and computerized, they have also become less exercised. We lock ourselves behind desks and in front of computers. When we sit, our back muscles hold us erect, but our stomach and hip muscles are inactive. When they are not exercised, stomach and hip muscles become weaker, putting a painful strain on the back muscles. Sitting places higher loads inside the lumbar disc than standing (between 150% to 250% depending on posture).

The condition of your back is very important to your health. A better back can lead to a better body.

Anatomy of the Back

Briefly explained, your spine is made up of the following components:

1) Vertebrae – the bones that make up your spine
2) Nerves – your entire nerve system runs through your spine
3) Discs – spongy material that separates your vertebrae, allowing the nerves to run between each bone segment. Discs act like shock absorbers and allow the spine to flex.

Each vertebrae is held in its proper place by three different kinds of soft tissue-discs, ligaments, and muscles. Almost all back problems are related to the dysfunction of one of these three. To understand the sources of your particular back problem and/or how to prevent back pain, it helps to understand the anatomy of your spine.

The natural curves of the spine are vitally important for giving your back strength and resilience. There are 24 vertebrae in your spinal column. The lumbar vertebrae are approximately two inches in diameter reflecting their weight-bearing role. The cervical vertebrae are smaller, since they must support only the head. Facet joints are located in pairs on the back of the spine, where one vertebra slightly overlaps the next. The facet joints guide and restrict movement of the spine. To the rear of each vertebra is a hole and when the vertebrae are stacked up, these holes form a continuous channel which holds the spinal cord.

The spinal cord provides a vital link between the brain and all body functions below the neck. Spinal nerves emerge from the spinal cord through gaps between the main body of the vertebrae and the facet joints. One frequent cause of back pain is a worn facet joint, which can result in a pinched nerve. Therefore, it is very important to keep your vertebrae in good shape.

This drawing shows a normal disc. The main function of your discs is to act as shock absorbers and provide separation between each vertebrae. The outer layers of your discs are formed from tough cartilage. The inner core of your disc is a jelly-like nucleus.

In total, your discs account for one-quarter the length of your vertebral column- 4.50″ to 6″ (12 to 15 cm) for most people. The disc acquires its nourishment through fluid-attracting and fluid-absorbing qualities of its jelly-like nucleus.

With no blood supply of its own, the disc is dependent on sponge action for attracting and absorbing nutrients from adjacent tissues. During non-weight bearing activities (sleeping) the discs expand as they soak up fluid, increasing the length of the spine by as much as one inch overnight. During weight bearing activities (sitting, standing, exercising), this fluid is squeezed back into the adjacent soft tissue.

Your vertebra are supported and moved by many different muscles. Muscles are used for three basic functions; support, movement, and posture control. If muscles are tight or weak, they create or worsen back pain. Joints are controlled by at least two sets of muscles, flexors which bend the joint, and extensors which straighten it. In addition, most joints have rotator muscles that twist and rotate your bones. Good posture is only possible if the flexors, extensors, and rotators are in proper balance.

Your paraspinal muscles (which run parallel to your spine) rotate your spine, bend it backwards, and sideways, and influence posture by creating and maintaining the curves of your spine. Your erector spine muscles are involved in movement and run the length of your spine. These muscles help you to bend over by resisting the force of gravity, and to straighten up by contracting and exerting great compressive force on your spine.

Your abdominal muscles play an important role in helping to support the spine by maintaining pressure inside the abdomen. This pressure is an essential measure of counter support to the spine.

Your psoas muscles (hip flexors) are a large group of muscles in the abdomen. These muscles help to flex your hips when walking or climbing stairs. They play an important role in maintaining posture for sitting and standing.

Intravertebral joints are supported by ligaments, tough and inelastic fibers which support the spine and hold it together by allowing only a limited range of movement in any one direction. Ligaments require regular movement and loading, otherwise they will eventually become stiff and weak.

Summary

• There are 24 vertebrae in your back which encase your spinal cord.
• Spinal nerves run through each vertebral joint in your spinal column.
• Your discs act as shock absorbers.
• With no blood supply of their own, discs depend on sponge-like action to soak up nutrients.
• Muscles and ligaments require regular movement in order to maintain flexibility.

 

Inversion Therapy

History of Inversion

Inversion therapy has been used to relieve back pain as early as 400 BC when Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine, strung up a patient on a ladder with ropes and pulleys and allowed gravity to do its work. The concept of inversion was not widely recognized in the United States, however, until Dr. Robert Martin (a California osteopath, chiropractor and medical doctor) introduced the “Gravity Guidance System” in the 1960’s. This revolutionary concept addressed the effects of gravity on the human body, the simple solution of inversion therapy, and the resulting benefits.

Dr. Martin had a “marketable personality.” He was devoted to communicating the benefits of postural exchange including inversion, and the public responded well to his sincerity and honesty. Dr. Martin appeared on talk shows, and was featured in popular publications like The Wall Street Journal.

Dr. Robert Martin, Jr. published a book in the late 1970’s. Together with the Gravity Guidance Inversion Table, the program caught on, experiencing increasing success. This encouraged other companies to enter the inversion market-products like the Bud Leach table and the BackSwing emerged. Gravity boots were popularized by the 1980 movie “American Gigolo” starring Richard Gere. By 1982, the inversion market had soared to over $70 million, with literally thousands of people incorporating inversion regularly into their lifestyle

Success comes with a price, however. Before soon, over forty manufacturers were producing inversion products. There was little differentiation between the products, which caused price wars among the companies. Some manufactures sacrificed quality so that they could offer cheaper products. The lack of attention to quality resulted in product failures, causing serious, sometimes deadly, harm to consumers.

Also, a medical study published in 1983 by Dr. Goldman and colleagues showed that inverted patients experienced an increase in blood pressure and internal eye pressure. The media widely reported the study, warning that stroke was a potential result of inversion. Two years following the inversion study, Dr. Goldman reversed his original position, stating, “New research shows that you are at no more of a stroke risk hanging upside down than if you are exercising right side up.” More in-depth research found that the body actually has mechanisms that prevent damage from hanging upside down. In fact, while oscillating (inverting with movement), some of the patients’ blood pressure actually dropped a few points. Experienced inverters also showed slower heart rates while inverted than when upright. (*Note: these studies were based on patients in generally good health. Make sure you review contraindications prior to inverting.)

Dr. Goldman stated that the warnings to the public about the dangers of inversion were “grossly inflated” and that in the 15 years these devices have been in use, there has not been one single stroke or cardiovascular incident documented. Note from Teeter Hang Ups: After 36 years, to the best of our knowledge this statement still remains valid.

Other universities, including Marquette, Iowa, and Portland studied inversion during this time, with results that vindicated Inversion as no more dangerous than other common fitness activities.

Unfortunately, the damage had already been done. The poor quality equipment combined with misunderstandings of health risks resulted in a decline of consumer confidence in inversion products. Inversion went from a multi-million dollar market to one that struggled to survive. The use of Inversion therapy shrank to virtually exclusive use by a few “in the know”, including chiropractors, physical therapists, sports trainers and professional athletes. Of the forty plus manufacturers in business in the early 1980’s, Hang Ups was the only company to continuously promote inversion products to present.

After a number of years fighting to rebuild the reputation of Inversion therapy, Teeter Hang Ups has witnessed tremendous growth in the use of inversion products in the late nineties. Inversion fits well with the “whole body wellness” trend that has evolved in the U.S. recently, and has become widely recognized as an effective and viable form of natural therapy. The wide-ranging benefits of Inversion apply to all age ranges and fitness levels.

In fact, after several years of evaluation, the US Army Physical Fitness School has decided to incorporate Inversion into its world-wide physical training doctrine. The Army Rangers at Fort Benning, GA use gravity boots to invert, “reversing” the damage done to their bodies during their demanding training. To them, Inversion represents the “Quiet Side of Fitness”-a restorative fitness tool to help decompress and mobilize joints to prevent injuries. Soldiers use gravity boots to stretch while inverted, moving joints through their full range of motion. To witness soldiers using Teeter Hang Ups Gravity Boots, visit the U.S. Army Physical Fitness School web site here. (Note: The U.S. Army cannot endorse any specific brand of inversion products.)

Synonymous with “Inversion,” the Teeter Hang Ups name is widely recognized all over the world as a quality supplier of inversion products. Teeter Hang Ups Inversion products have helped literally thousands of people improve their quality of life.

 

The most beautiful Engagement Ring

Engagement Ring

How To Select the Best Diamond Engagement Ring
By Jon Arnold 

Incredible isn’t it? You are now looking for a diamond engagement ring. Did you think this day would come so quickly? Well, it is here and what an exciting time of your life. You are going to be picking out the most incredible gift you will ever give to the one you love. You want it to be unique and special, but you also want to be able to eat after you give it to her. Cost can be a real issue when you are talking about a pricey item such as this.

Well, let’s give you some ways to help you save some money but yet, get the best diamond you can find. One that will sparkle in her eyes forever. Do you know what her taste is? What shape of diamond does she like? The most popular is the round or brilliant. The reason these are the most popular are because they tend to sparkle more than the others. And any woman will tell you to look how her ring sparkles!

When looking for the perfect diamond, you want to pay attention to the 4 Cs. The 4 Cs are the Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat weight.

Cut: The cut of the diamond is very important to pay attention to. This is what determines its brilliance, the many dimensions of light it reflects, the way it sparkles and its finish. If you buy the most perfect diamond as far as its color and its clarity, it won’t matter if the cut is not right.
You want to make sure it is not too deep or too shallow. The cuts are represented as Ideal, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. For the best price range in brilliance, you want to choose a diamond with a cut of good or very good.

Color: Color acts as a filter in a diamond. The less color, the more colorful the fire and the better the color grade. The colors D-J are the best, these are colorless or near to it, not able to see with your eye. Diamonds graded K-Z takes away from the diamond’s beauty. Try to avoid these.

Clarity: Many diamonds have inclusions (scratches, or anything that will detract from the beauty). Look for a diamond that is “eye-clean”, has no inclusions that you can see. These diamonds are much less expensive and the flaws will not ever be seen or noticed.

Carat weight: Larger diamonds are more expensive of course, because they are rarer than the small ones. The value goes up with the carat weight, and when you add the color, cut and clarity, you have a perfect diamond for your engagement ring.

When you are shopping at the jeweler’s, don’t be afraid to ask the sales person if you can borrow their “loop” for a moment to look more closely at a diamond. The loop is a magnifying glass that is used with one eye, and can magnify the diamond so that you can get a real close up look at it and see if there are imperfections in it.

Now that you know what to look at for your diamond engagement ring, you need to decide what setting you want. The cut will be determined by the setting you choose. And make sure the weight of your diamond will fit and look beautiful in your chosen setting.

You may think you need the biggest diamond, but you need to consider if she is someone who is used to wearing jewelry or not. Observe the kind of jewelry she usually wears, is it small and simple, or is it loud and fancy?

As far as price, the best guideline is to not spend more than 2 months salary, 3 months at the most. This may be the biggest purchase of your life. When you have gone through the steps of the 4 Cs, then you will know what you want. You will have a beautiful diamond engagement ring for that wonderful woman that you want to spend the rest of your life with. She is so worth it.

 

How women choose the shoes

A Review of Women’s Shoes
By Morgan Hamilton

Shoes have basically one purpose – protection. Protecting the feet from cold, heat and other atmospheric elements. Basically footwear was developed centuries ago to keep man’s feet from being injured. This fundamental purpose is overshadowed when it comes to womens shoes. It all flies out the window in favor of fashion.Cancel all that talk about protecting your feet. Any old shoe that you throw on will do this in a relatively competent way. However womens shoes go way above and beyond offering just protection for the feet. They serve a greater purpose that can only possibly be truly understood by the fairer of the species. I’m not suggesting that men don’t have your appreciation of womens shoes. Many men are wild about a nice set of stilettos or that unbelievable pair of high-heeled boots. I guess that’s where the term foot fetish comes in. The attractiveness of womens shoes is a two-way street. Many women of course, by shoes with this specifically in mind. On the other hand, I do not want for a minute pretend that men really understand what in the world is going on with their female counterparts when it comes to footwear. There is something very special about womens shoes that draws a lady to the store regardless of the fact of whether she needs them or not. And the majority of cases she probably doesn’t. However, she probably feels like she does. She can tell you that precious few things really replaces the feeling of locating the perfect pair of pumps in just the right shade of burgundy that matches the scarf that’s been sitting in the bottom of her dresser drawer. The scarf no doubt, was purchased knowing that there must be a perfect match in women’s shoes somewhere in the universe that she had to seek out. It may take many years to find these perfect shoes to match that scarf, but it will be worth the wait. One fine day the designers of womens shoes will come through and match that scarf. Besides, the girl is in the hunt anyway. The hunt takes awhile, but nothing worthwhile comes easy. This may not be understood by most men, who seemed to have the market cornered on impatience. As I said before, the great appeal womens shoes is shopping for them. The footwear represents that final touch, that one detail that says, “I’ve got it together.” They say it all, I have style I have class I have taste. Or maybe it is something altogether different. Come to think of it, I like to buy womens shoes because they are the one solitary item in the whole store I know will fit. I find them to be loyal even if I pack on a few pounds. I’m always a size seven when it comes to womens shoes.

 

Tips to Buy the Best Digital Picture Frame

Tips to Buy the Best Digital Picture Frame
By Eileen Roberts

Are you still using the drab ordinary picture frames to showcase your beautiful moments? It’s time for a change. Today, with everything changing into digital, photo frames are no exemption. Yes, today picture frames are going digital too and giving us such a wonderful choice of pictures in a new-age format. A digital picture frame looks almost similar to a small LCD screen that can display pictures (photos) stored in the memory card or in the inbuilt memory of the picture frame. The quality of the image displayed in these photo frames will be simply superb. However, before you opt to buy a digital picture frame, there are several things to be noted.

First things first- The resolution of display

Most of the digital picture frames show the images in high quality. This depends upon the resolution of the picture frame you choose. There are many different resolution options available. However, selecting a digital picture frame with 640×480 resolutions as a minimum will be good. If you have little more cash to spend on these frames, getting one with 800×600 resolutions will present crisp and sharp images. Any digital picture frame below 640×480 res screen will not display images as in the original photo- it will be blurred with very poor quality.

The Storage Space

These digital picture frames store the images in its memory in a digital format (jpeg or bmp). Most of the frames use an inbuilt memory while you can boost up the space using memory cards if you need to store more pictures. The compatibility of the memory cards with the pictures frames has to be taken into account. The picture frame has to support the same memory card that you use for your digital camera.

The Accessories

The digital picture frames are often bundled with certain accessories. AC adapter, interchangeable frames, and USB Cables are some of the common accessories available for the digital picture frames. Make sure that you get these basic accessories along with the frame or else you will have to spend some extra cash for buying them separately. There are many other optional accessories available for the digital photo frame, such as wi-fi connectivity to download images from the web, speakers, headphones, remote controls, alarm clocks and many more.

These are the basic things to look for before you buy a digital photo frame. Digital photo frames are available in almost all the electronics stores. However, buying the electronic goods online will save much of your hard earned money. The price of the picture frames when bought online will be more than 20% less than buying them from a local store.

Keeping your digital picture frame in full display and having a slideshow of your best pictures playing on it could get a more captive audience even at your home!